Rolex introduced its first professional dive watch, the Submariner, in 1953—an achievement that would go on to define one of the most recognizable and successful wristwatches ever created. With a design that is frequently imitated yet never truly replicated, the early Submariner underwent years of rigorous testing, refinement, and incremental evolution as Rolex sought to perfect the model.

While subtle design changes occurred throughout the 1950s, few years are as significant as 1957. That year stands apart for two features unique to its production: the dial and the bezel insert. The gilt dial displays an exceptionally rich, almost “bumblebee-like” saturation, with deep, glossy lacquer and luminous warmth. Equally important, 1957 marked the very first appearance of the red triangle insert—an experimental, single-year execution distinguished by its bold, thick-font, no-hash design. This would be replaced the following year by the hashed red triangle variant, making 1957 Submariners not only rare, but especially charismatic and highly sought after.

Retained directly from its original Canadian owner, this remarkable reference 6536/1 stands among the finest examples from the era—and unquestionably among the best preserved from 1957. “Small crown” Submariners from this year were produced in a notably short run, largely within the 306xxx serial range, while their larger sibling, the reference 6538 “big crown,” followed closely in the 307xxx range. The case on this example remains unpolished, preserving its sharp factory geometry, original finishing, and an exceptionally honest state of wear. Unlike most surviving examples, its single-year, no-hash red triangle insert is fully original and remains in factory condition, with vivid red coloration that has not faded or degraded.

Still fitted with its original domed crystal, the internally “crazed” surface further underscores the watch’s authenticity and untouched preservation. Beneath it lies a stunning original lacquer gilt dial, beautifully aged yet retaining a highly glossy and vibrant surface. The gilt printing and minute chapter ring remain particularly strong, creating a visual impact that is immediately captivating. The original luminous markers and hands are fully intact and have matured to a warm, even “biscuit” tone, lending depth and character to the dial. Completing the watch is its original and highly uncommon Rolex WAB bracelet from the UK, distinguished by its polished center links—an unusual and desirable detail, especially for a piece sourced from Canada.

Having handled many exceptional Submariners from the 1950s over the years, this example remains profoundly impactful—just as it was the first time I encountered it. The combination of true 1957 production, single-year features, and extraordinary preservation is exceedingly rare, offering a level of exclusivity that is unlikely to be matched anytime soon.

(Item: INVDBV_81)